Kundan Jewellery: Indian Treasure Troves

Emerald, diamond, ruby, set in gold

The Rich History of Kundan Jewellery

The Indian Kundan style is the oldest form of Indian jewellery, dating back around 2500 years. Kundan jewels first appeared in the Rajasthan and Gujarat regions, near the mountains of present-day Pakistan. Over the centuries, their popularity grew and spread throughout India.

The term 'kundan' means highly refined gold. This refers to the superior status and quality of the style. The gold used in Kundan jewels is of a high carat. These pieces are gem-studded and diamond-set, designed to sparkle and impress. It may come as no surprise that Kundan jewellery became a favorite among the Mughals and Indian royalty.

Kundan Jewellery and the Dowry System

In time, Kundan jewellery often became part of a dowry. In the Indian dowry system, the bride would bring valuables, often gold in the form of jewellery. This was meant as a form of early inheritance, as ties with the bride's family were nearly severed by marriage. Women, to this day, move in with the groom's family. Nowadays, a dowry is outlawed in India, although this is often disregarded.

Kundan Jewellery Today

To this day, Kundan jewellery is worn on special occasions. Bollywood actresses love to showcase their private collections, and no Indian wedding is complete without it. This popularity has led to a whole range of Kundan jewellery made from cheaper materials, known as Jadau, available for those on a smaller budget.

However, the mass-produced Jadau does not compare to the unique, authentic pieces. Every step in the manufacturing process of Kundan jewellery is performed by a separate craftsman. Each piece is built up from different layers and elements, resulting in a stunning example of perfect teamwork.

The Craftsmanship Behind Kundan Jewellery

Authentic Kundan jewellery is special for its flawless finishing. The first phase involves building a 'ghat,' a unique framework made from 22-karat gold strips. These strips are cut, shaped, and soldered onto a gold base to form the foundation of the piece.

The Khudayi Process

The second step is khudayi, which involves hand engraving the reverse side with intricate floral designs and organic patterns. This is followed by the “meenakari” work, where the engraved patterns on the gold surface are filled in with various enamels or glass paste colors. Usually, motifs of tulips, lotuses, and carnations are beautifully immortalized in these pieces.

The Jadayi Technique

After the framework has been filled with shellac in the final phase, the front is covered with precious, rare stones like diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. This is the ultimate sparkle enhancer, known as jadayi.

Diamonds are the most important stones in Kundan jewels. They are referred to as polki, which are thin slivers of diamonds. These are set onto layers of silver foil to bring out their best brilliance. To set the precious stones, gold foil is inserted between the stones and the framework. Layer after layer of gold foil is pushed together to firmly grip the stones.

The Future of Kundan Jewellery

These age-old crafting techniques are becoming increasingly rare. Most Indians prefer modern jewellery or contemporary variations of Kundan jewels. However, Kundan seems to be making a comeback. The older Kundan jewellery is rare and therefore more precious, making it a good investment.

Indian craft in gems and gold

Kundan jewellery is not just an accessory; it is a piece of history. Its intricate craftsmanship and rich heritage make it a timeless treasure. Whether worn at weddings or special events, Kundan jewellery continues to captivate hearts and minds of the masses.

For those looking to invest in a piece of history, authentic Kundan jewellery offers a unique blend of beauty and cultural significance.